Why won’t my nails grow long and strong? Ask The Kit

“I don’t understand why my nails won’t grow! They are super thin and break all the time. I’ve started taking biotin and try to keep polish on them but they still break. My mom has these really long and strong nails (I’m 14). How can I get those?” — Lily, Etobicoke

Hi Lily! Thanks so much for writing. Reading your question brought back vivid memories of being fascinated by my mom’s nails when I was growing up. They represented sophistication to me. She never fussed with them, but they always looked amazing. She could cook and garden and clean and nothing would happen to them. And guess what happened? Today I have her nails, and they grow faster than I want them to.

But first, let’s deal with how to make your nails grow long, strong and healthy from the inside out. Thanks for letting me know your age, as nutritional considerations do change according to life stage. To fill us in, I spoke with Maude Morin, a registered dietitian who works with Toronto’s JM Nutrition (but is based in Saint John, because everything is virtual now). Morin says priority number 1 is to make sure you are eating enough, and especially enough protein. Teens’ lives are busy, says Morin, and eating habits can be forgotten. “Three square meals a day, plus healthy snacks, with two litres of water,” she advises. “If your diet is not balanced, you are missing vitamins and minerals that are building blocks for hair, skin and nails.”

If you aren’t giving your body enough fuel, she says, that “will put your nails far down on the list of the things your body has to do in a day. The energy will go to your red blood cell count, your heart beating, your brain, breathing and digestion first. Your nails will suffer.”

Protein is what builds collagen, which helps nails grow longer and stronger; Morin suggests eggs, whole-milk Greek yogurt, nuts and seeds and nut butters, chicken, fish, soy foods and bone broth. You note you are taking biotin supplements — Morin advises making sure you are getting biotin in your diet as well. “Biotin is vitamin B7, so go for dark leafy greens, cooked eggs, legumes, beans and lentils. Avocados have some biotin, but also healthy fats that maintain skin barrier and help with nails,” she says. “A multivitamin is always a good idea,” she says, “but not gummies, as they don’t contain iron.”

Now for the exterior nail care part of the answer. The number 1 nail nurturing secret is to wear gloves when doing dishes and extended cleaning, says Toronto-raised, New York — based Rita Remark, an editorial, red carpet and runway nail artist, and global educator for Essie. Water weakens nails. Proper hydration, however, is key. “Cuticle oil and hand cream are like eye cream and face cream,” Remark says. She uses Essie’s apricot cuticle oil, because “it mimics the natural sebum, so it is easily recognized and easily absorbed. Plus it smells good, so there is a reward for using it.” Try to incorporate cuticle oil into your routine twice a day, and carry it in your purse or backpack to use it whenever you remember to pull it out.

Stimulating blood flow will also help the nails grow. A gentle cuticle push and massage will help and buffing (lightly) can increase circulation in the area. “Energy goes where blood flows,” Remark says. But be gentle; too much filing or buffing can weaken the nail bed.

“To grow your nails long, you should be regularly giving them a little file,” she says. “It is counterintuitive, but when you file regularly, you smooth the tip, so any snags can’t develop into peeling or cracking.” Just be sure to use a nail file — not an emery board, those are too coarse — that is no less than 180 gauge grit (the higher the grit, the finer the file). Tweezerman makes great ones, she says. Keep a file in your bag, too, to smooth any cracks when they start.

Nail strengthening treatments go a long way. Remark recommends Essie Hard to Resist, which is meant to be worn alone; there is one with a violet tint that neutralizes yellow in brittle or stained nails, and one with a rosy undertone that’s good for brightening dull nails.

If you love to wear nail colour, go right ahead! Remark says there is no need for a polish “break” as modern lacquers are now free from the harmful ingredients of the past. She recommends using Essie Start Strong as your base coat under colour. “It has MSM compounds, which don’t sound sexy, but they naturally strengthen the nail. They repair the nail right under the polish.” Change your polish once a week.

Now for the fun part: fall colour trends! “It’s been a very green year,” she says. “It’s so versatile.” She is liking a great khaki (such as Essie Precious Cargo-go) and a deep hunter green (like Force of Nature). Classic reds are back, as is the classic or colourful French manicure, à la Beyoncé’s customary almond-shaped version. But it is chocolate brown Remark is most excited about for fall, citing Take the Expresso and Cold Brew Crew as top picks.

As for nail art, Remark is seeing minimalist graphics in just a few tones of brown, chocolate and beige. But the biggest news in nails may be the new length: shorter! This is good news for you, Lily (and for me, because I keep my nails strictly on the short side, with rounded square edges). “It is musicians leading the way here,” Remark says, who has spotted Rihanna and Meghan Thee Stallion sporting shorter nails recently. “Very long nails have been a trend for a very long time,” she says. And we all know what happens with trends: The pendulum must swing back, eventually. Says Remark: “I’m here for classic.”

Shop the Advice

Grooming tools and a little TLC go a long way to help keep nails healthy

Tweezerman nail files, $9 (3-pack), amazon.ca SHOP HERE

These dual-sided files come in a protective carry case so you can keep them with you at all times to catch snags. Use the finer (180) grit for this and always file in the same direction.

Dior Huile Abricot Daily Nutritive Serum, $39, nordstrom.ca SHOP HERE

This luxe cuticle serum is fortified with argan oil, Vitamin E and apricot oil and won’t spill in your purse, thanks to its clever squeezy-pen format.

Essie Hard to Resist Nail Strengthener, Violet Tint, $14, amazon.ca SHOP HERE

Guard against daily wear and tear with this strengthener meant to be worn on its own. The subtle but edgy violet tint helps neutralize yellow and brittle nails.

Yves Rocher Nail Polishing Block, $5, yvesrocher.ca SHOP HERE

A four-sided block to file, smooth, polish and shine. Buffing increases blood flow to the nail bed, but be gentle; too much or too vigorous buffing can cause damage.

Essie Expressie Nail Polish in Precious Cargo-go, $14, shoppersdrugmart.ca SHOP HERE

In a year when the green nail polish trend is going strong, this chic neutral khaki will be an everyday favourite.

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