Two new Denver bars that’ll feel like vacation in January

You deserve a vacation this month. But if you’re like me, you aren’t taking one (because the holidays were expensive, because omicron still surges, and because there just isn’t any time for that).

Enter two new Denver destinations where you can at least feel transported for a night. One will take you to Paris by way of Montreal, and the other will give you a taste of Oaxaca and Mexico City all in one bite.

Cantina Loca

This is the Denver tasting room and bar for chef Dana Rodriguez’s own Doña Loca spirits brand. Rodriguez launched her mezcal and tequila line in 2021 and has been planning this cantina extension of it — her first solo restaurant project — all along.

“This concept is my dream,” Rodriguez said in a release. “It’s the ultimate representation of Mexican culture through food and drink, in an atmosphere that feels like a true Mexico City cantina.”

Why make the trip: If you’ve been to Rodriguez’s restaurants Work & Class and Super Mega Bien (or even if you haven’t) you’ll want to check out this latest addition to the family. It’s a casual cantina with an artistic streak. Local builders FinArt furnished the space on the ground floor of a LoHi extended stay, and muralist John Rumtum warmed up the concrete walls and brickwork with a loving ode to the agave plant.

Order like a local: There are plenty of agave spirit-based cocktails to order (see requisite palomas and margaritas), but you should also peruse the menu of aguas benditas so you can sip the house brand mezcal on its own, in three distinct styles, and also try other traditional Mexican spirits, such as raicilla (pronounced rai-see-yuh) and sotol (pronounced so-toll). See also tacos and snacks such as tempura cactus, or nopales fritos, and stuffed corn sopes, or picaditas vegetarianas.

Exchange rate: Snacks will set you back $7-$13, tacos cost $3.75-$5 and big plates such as pollo adobado and lamb mixiote are priced at $15-$26. Expect to pay $11-$14 for cocktails, and $9-$30 for sipping mezcal. Beers are also available for $5-$8, and four N/A drinks including horchata and chicha morada cost $6.

Travel plan: The cantina is open Sunday-Thursday from 4-10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 4-11 p.m. It’s closed on Monday and Tuesday, at 2880 Zuni St., and cantinaloca.com.

Au Feu Brasserie

Meet a former RiNo food hall stall that’s all grown up and sophisticated in Washington Park. This French-inspired restaurant started out at Zeppelin Station in 2018 but recently advanced to a brick-and-mortar space next door to Uncle ramen on Pennsylvania Street. And the two businesses make for great date-night neighbors, depending on your mood. At the brasserie, owners Jared and Amanda Leonard were inspired by Montreal’s food scene.

“We ate our way through Montreal while researching the Au Feu concept and fell in love with the French culture of the city,” Jared Leonard said in a release. “We were particularly inspired by restaurants like Joe Beef and Au Pied du Cochon.”

Why make the trip: It’s hard to recognize this space that was once occupied by a burger shop. Now it’s all velvet seating and art deco decor, with the air of a Parisian sitting room. Pair that with a barbecue master’s expert food, which includes a mix of French and Canadian influences (see boeuf bourguignon and house poutine), and you’ll start to see why the Leonards are calling it a “casually indulgent” after-work escape.

Order like a local: Leonard tapped Dutch sommelier Jeroen Erens to pick the 65-bottle, all-French wine list, so you’ll want to get his input for your drink order. Aside from wine, there’s a great selection of pre-prohibition European-inspired cocktails (Prince of Wales, Fleur de Lis), as well as cognac, armagnac and eau de vie.