You sound like my mum,’ teases Tom Kerridge, when I ask him what he’s hoping for this Christmas.
When we meet to discuss his new book, Real Life Recipes, and his ideas for the Yuletide season, England are smashing their way through the World Cup football matches in Qatar. Tom has yet to watch a game but ‘seeing the boys hold up the Cup would be great. Otherwise, honestly, I just love planning what to give others and seeing [son] Acey with a big smile on his face.’
Naturally bubbly, relaxed and positive, Tom is the perfect person to steer us to a stress-free Christmas, while keeping tight budgets in mind. He is used to smiling through as he caters for large numbers under pressure, so who better to give us some pointers on keeping calm this Christmas?
With his wife – the sculptor Beth Cullen-Kerridge – and six-year-old Acey, Tom will be ‘with the in-laws up north in Staffordshire. There will be about 15 of us on Christmas Day, so I’m looking forward to that very much. Of course, I’ll be doing the cooking, but with my sister-in-law. She is a good cook, well organised and a very good host.
‘It’s my job to cook. For over 30 years I’ve done it and it’s my skill set. I get why lots of people stress about it and can get frightened by it but I don’t find it stressful and I honestly think there are ways to make it more enjoyable, no matter what you’re like in the kitchen.’
The family’s menu will include Beef Wellington and all the trimmings. ‘I’m a big turkey fan but my sister-in-law has a poultry allergy, so if we do turkey we always do it with something else. There will be turkey for Boxing Day though. That is my absolute favourite – cooked cold turkey is the most amazing thing. We serve it with the same thing every year – pigs in blankets, sprouts, roast potatoes, all that stuff and a Christmas pudding and dessert. This year it’ll be a big sticky toffee pudding.’
So, how does he suggest we all stay calm and avoid culinary crisis this Christmas? Oven space is the biggest issue facing people, Tom notes. ‘The best thing to do is cook the potatoes in the morning and then chuck them back in the oven when you need them.
‘They don’t have to be ready for when the turkey comes out. Do as much ahead of time as possible and reheat them when the meat is resting. Oven space is at a premium but it’s the same with your veg. You can cook them beforehand and heat them up at the end. It’ll make life much, much easier when pulling it all together.’
His top tip this cost-conscious year is not to overbuy. ‘Bear in mind, the shops are only shut on Christmas Day, so you only need enough for one day. There are only so many cheese biscuits and packets of crisps you need. Look at it as a big Sunday lunch, to stop you overdoing things.’
In the interests both of budget and keeping things simple in the kitchen, Tom suggests: ‘A lot of stuff now is ready-made, such as puddings and chutneys, so reduce extra stress levels by buying what you can. Don’t pressure yourself into making and doing everything yourself… most people’s lives won’t allow that. Use supermarket help because it can save you time and money.’
The new cookbook is all about saving time and money. While Tom has produced books in the past showcasing his skills as a Michelin-star chef, Real Life Recipes is a blend of dishes he cooked at home in lockdown, and his work with footballer Marcus Rashford for their Full Time meals campaign aimed at people facing food poverty. These are ‘pocket-friendly, easy-peasy recipes for mega-tasty, super-filling hearty, home-cooked grub’.
Tom explains: ‘We wanted to raise Healthy Start vouchers and get to the point where food is less intimidating, easy and more affordable. People aren’t doing three-course meals on a Tuesday night. This is for actual people and their real lives rather than aspirational cooking. It’s a day-to-day cookbook. Tea is the trickiest for most people, who tend to get stuck in a repertoire of about eight dishes they go back to over and again.’
With the price of turkey set to soar due to higher food costs and a bad bout of bird ’flu, the book offers fantastic Christmas alternatives. A delicious beef shin and carrot stew uses a traditionally cheaper cut of meat. Tom suggest doing ‘a braise or a casserole if you fancy it; there is nothing wrong with changing it up. Put spices throughout, such as whole cinnamon sticks or star anise to give it that Christmassy feel. This would work really well as a turkey alternative, as would a haunch of venison.’
You could make turkey roll with turkey breast and sausagemeat, ‘or get turkey mince with cranberries and sausagemeat and bake it in a loaf tin. That’ll produce a beautiful, protein-led main course that is easier, a bit cheaper and just as festive. It definitely won’t break the bank.’
As for social media pressure to produce perfect everything, from Christmas lunch to the front-door festive wreath, Tom reminds us to resist, as it isn’t the reality for anyone. And if you’re more concerned about getting the kids to eat their festive greens, try his way with Brussels sprouts.
‘Wok fry them with loads of butter, chestnuts, bacon and lots of chopped herbs at the end. Make sure you keep them crunchy… the moment you overcook them, they go soggy. Think of them as mini cabbages you want to chargrill.’
Like most kids, Acey’s big on dessert and Tom suggests his recipe for baked chocolate pudding with tinned cherries. ‘If you undercook it, it’s delicious, and if you overcook it, that’s cool because it comes out like a thick brownie’ – perfect for even the most basic cook. ‘These are recipes that work without people having to work too hard,’ Tom explains. ‘The work I’ve done with Marcus has been amazing – he’s a wonderful bloke.’
Looking forward, Tom is now gearing up for Christmas with Acey. He says: ‘I love us all just being together and watching little man having a wonderful time with everyone.
‘That’s what it’s all about… that, and my favourite bits of cold turkey with pickles.’
Recipes from the Full Time meals campaign Tom launched with Marcus Rashford are available in his new book, Real Life Recipes
MORE : Five chefs reveal their favourite alternatives to the traditional turkey dinner
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