The DIY masterclass: How to restore your home’s coving to its former glory
Coving is the killer touch to any period property – but it doesn’t always look its best.
Years of being painted over, covered up and generally ignored, mean that this key element to Victorian homes often looks dull, cracked or just disappears into the background.
Read on for full instructions on how to restore your coving to its former glory.
The expert: Irene Gunter is founder of Gunter & Co, a London-based interior design studio, and explains how to bring coving back to its former glory, simply.
What you’ll need: Paint (of your choice); paint stripper; protective gloves and goggles; filler.
Five things to consider before restoring your coving
1. Length
Typically, coving comes in 3m lengths, so bear this in mind when calculating how much you need. Ideally you want as few joins as possible. Fortunately, a skilled fitter will be able to make any joins look flawless.
Don’t forget to take your ceiling height into account. For example, if you install wide coving in a room with a low ceiling, you will create an out-of-proportion effect that seemingly shrinks the room.
2. Height
As a rule, if your ceilings are below 2.4m I would suggest a coving of no more than 4cm in height. If your ceilings are between 2.4m and 2.8m, then coving of approximately 15cm to 18cm high works well. Whereas if your ceilings are 2.8m and taller than 20cm-plus coving is a good match.
These are just rough guidelines which should always be looked at in the context of the wider interior architecture.
3. Space
You will also need to keep in mind the space between the top of your window and the ceiling. If there’s not much space, what you can do is stop the coving short on one side of the window and then continue it on the other.
4. Always order samples
This is the only way to truly appreciate the size and quality of the coving. Plus, you can show the sample to your fitter so that they know what to expect. It sounds obvious, but don’t forget to actually attach it to the wall.
This allows you to stand back and imagine what it will look like going around the whole room
5. Use a professional fitter
We would always recommend using a professional fitter, even when the coving is quite simple. This ensures you achieve the very best finish. Getting corners just right is no mean feat, especially when your walls aren’t built at perfect angles. It takes time and expertise to measure, cut, and install covings so that they look perfect.
Step-by-step instructions
Step 1: Strip back
If your coving is covered in old paint, the first step is to strip it back to plaster so that you have a fresh surface to repaint in the colour of your choice.
Step 2: Test it
Always apply paint stripper to a small test area first. This way you can make sure it is compatible with the existing finish.
Before applying the paint stripper, follow the manufacturer’s safety procedures and wear the appropriate protective gear such as thick gloves and goggles to protect your eyes. Also, don’t forget to protect your floor from paint stripper splashes by covering it up.
Step 3: Check
How long the stripper takes to soften the paint depends on its strength. Again, refer to the manufacturer’s instructions. Bear in mind that if the existing paint is super-thick, you may need to repeat the process more than once.
Step 4: Remove
When you are happy that the stripper has softened the paint, gently remove it using a scraper. An old toothbrush is good for getting into any awkward nooks and crannies. If there are any areas where the stripper hasn’t worked its magic, simply apply another layer of paint stripper.
Once all the old paint has been removed, wash the coving with warm soapy water and leave it to dry completely. Be aware that this may take several days.
Step 5: Cracks
Cracks may be revealed once you have removed the old paint. If this is the case, sand away any lumps and bumps so that the area is smooth. Then, apply a filler to the cracked area [following the manufacturer’s instructions].
Once the filler has set, clean the coving with warm soapy water and once again, leave to dry before you begin painting.
Step 6: Apply primer
If you have stripped your coving back to plaster, I recommend applying a primer before you begin painting. This provides a stable surface that the new paint can adhere to. Paint primer also helps to hide surface stains.
Step 7:
And finally, it’s time to paint your coving. I recommend using an emulsion, which comes in various finishes, but for coving, I always go for matt.
Top ten tips
1. The architectural language of the property and the room itself is very important. What type of windows do you have? Do you have classical windows such as sash or casement, or more contemporary windows? If you have classical windows, it makes sense to complement them with classical coving [think curved, stepped, gradual detailing]. But if you have contemporary windows, sleek coving with square detailing, for instance, will be a better fit.
2. There is a multitude of coving styles, spanning classic to contemporary, understated to extravagant. To find the coving that suits your space, visit your local coving store for inspiration. Seeing the various options in person is the best way to get an idea of the look you want.
3. When installing coving, keep the position of your recessed downlights in mind. You don’t want them too close to your coving, which will create a visual conflict. Plan for at least 10, 15 if not 20cm between the edge of your coving and the edge of a recessed downlight.
4. Similarly, if you are planning to install ceiling-mounted speakers, you will need to think carefully about the space between the speakers and the coving. Again, I recommend at least 10, 15 if not 20cm.
5. If your room features a curved element, such as a bay window or curved wall, use a high-end supplier such as Stevensons of Norwich, who’ll come to your home and template that section of the ceiling. They will then custom make a piece of curved coving.
6. If your budget doesn’t stretch to my suggestion above, the more affordable option is to contact a company like Orac Décor. They make flexible coving in light, durable material that can be curved on installation.
7. If you have the necessary DIY skills or you’ve got a friendly builder, don’t just stick to coving. I’m all for adding other decorative ceiling mouldings, inset, found in period properties. Details like ceiling roses or ornate stucco work are the perfect way to make the fifth wall really sing, drawing the eye upwards and adding a new element of luxury, texture, dimension and interest to the space. I don’t think you can underestimate how special it makes the room feel.
8. A quick note about ceiling roses: people are always scared of going for a decent-sized ceiling rose and go for something too small. My advice is to take a large piece of paper, cut it to size and apply it on your ceiling and see how it looks.
9. Think about the decorative details you may want to add, or already exist in the room. If your heart is set on traditional coving, the skirting, ceiling rose, picture rail or dado rail should speak the same design language.
10. Statement covings work in key spaces such as grand hallways, living rooms or master bedrooms where you have generous ceiling heights. You can then use less ornate coving in low-key spaces, so long as the design language is retained. For example, we will use a detailed leaf coving in a grand reception and a simpler curved coving in the bedrooms.
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