How stress wrecks your skin – and what to do about it

This Stress Awareness Day, your skin might seem like one of the last things to worry about, but as we all know, it matters – and can affect mental health when we aren’t happy with our appearance.

Dr Mara Weinstein, a psychodermatologist for LOUM, a skincare brand focused on promoting the feeling of calm, tells Metro.co.uk it’s scientifically proven that stress negatively affects skin.

‘We know from robust clinical research that stress has a profound effect on your skin,’ she says.

‘It manifests through 3 pathways that originate in the brain; the first pathway is the release of cortisol in response to stress. 

‘When stress becomes chronic, increased cortisol levels can degrade collagen and accelerate signs of aging, leading to dullness, loss of elasticity and increased wrinkling. 

‘The next pathway involves an increase in the release of substance P which can worsen acne breakouts by increasing sebum production and enlarging pores. 

‘Lastly, when we are stressed, adrenaline is released which can activate inflammatory markers leading to increased redness, inflammation, and sensitivity on the skin.’

This is why there isn’t a one-size-fits all approach to tackling stressed skin – how it looks will vary person to person.

While someone might find they get more spots and excess sebum, another might find their skin becomes drier and sensitive to the touch.

Why stress’s impact on skin is important

Far from an issue of vanity, skin that’s effected by stress should be paid attention.

It’s a symptom of a larger mental health and wellness issue.

Dr Lucy Thomas, dermatologist and brand ambassador for Vaseline UK, explains: ‘At times of emotional or physical stress, the nervous system is activated in what is known as a fight or flight response.

‘This response is controlled by an area in the brain called the hypothalamus that causes the release of chemicals including adrenaline and cortisol that bring about physical changes such as increased heart rate, flushing, and sweating.

‘It is well documented that significant life stresses such as bereavement can trigger certain skin diseases including eczema, psoriasis, and some forms of alopecia.’

Signs stress is affecting your skin

What can you do to help stressed skin?

Part of the answer is in your skincare.

Tiffany Salmon, founder of Scientia, says it’s possible to be faced with conflicting skin issues, experiencing dehydrated sensitive skin, spots and excess sebum all at once, which makes choosing skincare less straightforward.

She says: ‘Because cortisol slows the production of beneficial oils skin often gets drier, rougher and more irritated because the healthy oils act as a protective layer for the skin.

‘This over production of cortisol, can have a direct effect on your skin barrier too. Your skin barrier works to trap moisture in and keep irritants and pollutants out.

‘Cortisol actually depletes the things your barrier needs to stay healthy, causing trans-epidermal water loss and impaired barrier function.

‘At the same time, cortisol can also stimulate the overproduction of sebum, the oil that is can cause breakouts and acne,’ so you need to switch to products that offer hydration without being heavy, which could increase the chances of breaking out.

Dr Ewoma Ukeleghe, Superdrug’s brand ambassador, is of the view that while adapting your skincare is important, ‘it can only take you so far’.

She suggests trying mindfulness techniques to reduce stress alongside product changes.

For the times you are turning to skincare, she suggests you ‘gravitate towards products that are rich in omegas, squalene and ceramides to nourish any dryness and support the skin barrier function, which is compromised by stress.

‘If breakouts are the issue, it’s important to use more targeted products with zinc, with hazel and niacinamide, which are all great for calming down inflammation and managing oil control.

‘Lastly, an easy way to restore the skin is to use a regenerative product overnight. Look for something with AHAs and BHAs to transform dull, weathered skin.’

Dr Weinstein adds: ‘Wild indigo extract has been shown to combat the effects of cortisol on the skin, in addition to CBD which reduces sebum production and micro marine algae, which has an anti-inflammatory effect.’

Most ideally, find healthier ways to manage stress.

But even then don’t be surprised when your skin doesn’t get back to its usual state soon after the stressful trigger in your life passes.

Dr Maryam Zamani says: ‘The skin’s natural turnover is four to six weeks, so usually this would be the amount of time to give to see the results of lifestyle and skin regime changes.’

This means if you change up your skincare routine to accommodate stress, you need to be patient to see how it’s truly working for you.

She adds: ‘Stress causes a chemical response in your body that makes skin more sensitive and reactive. It can also make it harder for skin problems to heal,’ so you need to adopt things that will help the healing process.

Dr Zamani, who believes in working holistically to combat issues, suggests quitting smoking, cutting back on drinking and taking up more exercise which ‘can help eliminate toxins from the body, improve circulation and decrease stress levels.’

During stressful times, general good practice for the sake of wellbeing is easier to neglect and forget about, indirectly leaving skin more vulnerable.

More often than not, stress-affected skin is part of a much bigger picture.

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