How do I build the best skin care routine? Ask The Kit

Ask The Kit is the real-talk advice column you never knew you needed. Every month, writer Ingrie Williams answers your pressing beauty questions. How can I deal with frizz? Why is my skin freaking out? Send your Qs to [email protected]

“I want to get into skin care and be better about looking after my skin, but I have no idea where to start. Do I really need a day cream and a night cream? What does a serum even do? I’d love some advice on how to put together a good basic skin regimen.” —Lorrie, Ottawa

One of the best parts of my job as a beauty writer is that the skin care landscape is an ever-evolving space. It’s like stepping into a fast-growing jungle, where you may stumble across a beautiful, awe-inspiring wonder but will also encounter less-desirable weeds underfoot. There is always something new to discover — which keeps things exciting — but, if I’m being honest, it can also be overwhelming. There’s a lot to choose from out there and, in the age of social media, a lot of skin care misinformation that can give rise to some questionable trends (a DIY coffee grounds face scrub? Hard pass!). So I think it’s important we start off on the same page. Let’s clarify what we mean when we talk about a winning skin care routine.

“A good routine is one that is consistent and comprehensive. It has to be one that you can follow regularly — daily! — and is affordable over the long-term,” says Dr. Renée A. Beach, a Toronto-based dermatologist and the founder of DermAtelier on Avenue. While her ideal routine includes six or seven steps to address multiple skin needs, that needn’t be the norm for you. “Comprehensiveness is really a varied concept. For some, it may mean doing two steps, such as using a cleanser and sunscreen,” she says. It all comes down to personal preference and what realistically works for your lifestyle. My routine is in the five-step range and varies slightly depending on how my skin is behaving and whether I’m trying to rush off to join a morning Zoom meeting or procrastinating at bedtime.

And then there’s the why of it all. What benefit does following a few (or more) steps offer? Well, there’s levels to that, too. “A good skin care routine is a form of health maintenance that can have far-reaching effects on self-confidence,” says Dr. Vincent Richer, a cosmetic dermatologist at Pacific Derm in Vancouver, noting the impact that common concerns can have on one’s skin and self-esteem. “For severe acne, complex hyperpigmentation or long-standing sun damage, a good skin care routine will prolong the investment in a medical treatment or procedure,” he says, “Maintaining skin health is really where skin care shines, yet it can also significantly improve mild-to-moderate conditions with commitment and time.”

Dealing with adult acne

Essentially, you’re selling your skin short by opting out, especially if a skin condition such as acne or rosacea is part of the picture. I’m among the 25 to 30 per cent of women who experience adult acne, which can be exacerbated by a lack of maintenance. “With acne, if you don’t wash your face consistently, it will accumulate oil, product residue, dead skin cells and bacteria — all which can encourage breakouts,” says Dr. Beach. And, in my case, inflammation from the slightest basic blemish inevitably leads to an unwanted dark spot. “In my patients with skin of colour, acne can cause long-standing hyperpigmentation, and many other conditions can lead to an irregular complexion [with] sunspots or melasma,” says Dr. Richer.

Lastly, there’s the not-so-small matter of UV exposure that casts a wide net of potential concerns. “Sun damage can take many forms on the skin: an uneven complexion, fine lines or wrinkles, sallowness and rough scaly patches that can represent an early transformation to skin cancer,” says Dr. Richer, “A dedicated, intentional skin care routine can stave off or lessen these conditions.”

Morning skin care routine

The next key piece of info that can help lead you to skin care greatness is that timing is everything. Your skin’s needs change throughout the day, so it’s best to break down your routine into two phases: morning and night. “In the a.m., cleansing is critical to erase any surface residue that may have accumulated overnight, and essentially prep the canvas for the day’s products and protectants you apply next,” says Dr. Beach. Cleansers with hydrating ingredients, including glycerin or sodium hyaluronate, are her go-to for this initial step. For anyone with acne-prone skin, Dr. Richer suggests swapping in a cleanser that contains salicylic acid.

After cleansing, using an antioxidant serum, such as one with vitamin C, is a smart idea to help skin defend itself against free radical damage, which can break down collagen, cause dullness and trigger dark spots. A vitamin C serum also safeguards against sun damage, especially when applied under sunscreen. Look for an oil-free option if you’re blemish-prone.

Sunscreen application

Moisturizer is up next, but your top priority should be developing a daily sun protection ritual. “The fundamental goals of a morning skin care routine are to protect from the environment and treat a skin condition, if relevant,” says Dr. Richer, “In the simplest of scenarios, this would involve a gentle cleanser followed by a sunscreen or moisturizer with SPF. For regular daily activities, SPF 30 provides decent protection, but it is worth reaching for higher SPFs for prolonged outdoor activities or the beach.” If you’re looking to further treat blemishes or dark spots, serums with active ingredients (benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid for the former, glycolic acid or niacinamide for the latter) can be applied before SPF goes on. Then you’re ready to face the day!

Nighttime skin care routine

The M.O. of a p.m. routine is slightly different. “The intention is skin repair and again treating a skin condition, if relevant,” says Richer. If you’re addressing acne or hyperpigmentation, the actives you used in the morning can be repeated at night because most are recommended to be used twice daily to achieve best results. Otherwise, a bare-bones routine would involve a gentle cleanser or makeup remover, a retinol or retinoid and moisturizer, says Richer.

The heavy hitting ingredient of an evening routine is vitamin A, which has a solid track record for improving the surface of skin, generating collagen, reducing acne and dark spots — it’s a true multitasker. Common derivatives of the ingredient include retinol or retinal, which can be purchased over-the-counter, while stronger retinoids are available by prescription only. If it’s a smoother, plumper and clearer complexion you’re after, a dab of vitamin A will make a difference … if you’re prepared to be patient. “It’s a bit of a ‘start low, go slow’ approach and we are playing the long game — it is not a race to the top for high concentrations. If patients experience irritation all the time, they won’t stay on their retinoid for very long,” says Dr. Richer.

And consistency counts! In her own routine, Beach uses an Rx retinoid once or twice a week, and strategically on her forehead, cheeks and chin only. “[Ingredient] strength really depends on one’s skin tolerance, thickness and oil level in a given area,” she says. To further minimize potential irritation, she tailors the start of her PM routine accordingly. “I use a very gentle cleanser at night, particularly if I am going to use an active afterward,” she says. Still, there is a possibility that retinol might not be for you — and that’s OK! “Sometimes skin is just too sensitized, and glycolic acid is an interesting alternative that may cause less irritation,” says Dr. Richer.

After active treatments have been applied, a moisturizer to protect the top layer of skin from water loss while you sleep is the final step. Both derms look for formulas rich in skin-strengthening peptides here. “Growth factors and peptides are getting more and more science to support them, and they can be considered for someone who is motivated at preventing or undoing accelerated aging from the sun,” says Richer.

Vitamin C serum

Now that you know how to build a good skin care routine and are ready to spend a few minutes a day on skin health, I’d be remiss to send you off into that beauty jungle without a word on the financial investment. “It does not have to cost a lot of money,” says Beach, who suggests saving on cleansers that wash off and spending more on leave-on products, such as moisturizer and sunscreen. Her biggest splurge includes a vitamin C serum. “It blocks pollutants and free radicals that sunscreen cannot, and I want to be sure it absorbs sufficiently,” she says. Remember we’re creating an everyday habit, right? A good routine for you must be within your budget, not beyond your means.

Shop the advice: Everything you need to build the best skin care routine

The hydrating cleanser

Recognized by the Canadian Dermatology Association, this non-foaming lotion gently cleanses while hydrating. It contains hyaluronic acid and three essential ceramides to help protect your skin’s natural barrier.

The purifying face wash

Clinique Acne Solutions Cleansing Gel, $31, thebay.com SHOP HERE

This medicated cleansing gel contains two per cent salicylic acid, which helps eliminate acne and keep breakouts at bay, leaving all skin types feeling smooth and refreshed.

The vitamin C serum

A breakthrough oil-free serum perfect for those with oily or combination skin. It fends off free radical damage and reduces visible signs of aging such as fine lines without clogging pores or causing breakouts.

The niacinamide serum

This minimally formulated serum contains only ten ingredients, including five per cent niacinamide. The high-potency formula reduces excess oil and visible imperfections such as redness while also soothing skin.

The blemish-clearing treatment

Thanks to a combination of salicylic acid, niacinamide and vitamin C, this serum helps clear pimples and fade the look of post-breakout discoloration.

The sunscreen

Streamline your routine with this all-in-one moisturizer and SPF. The featherlight cream hydrates skin while keeping it protected against UV rays. It’s also spiked with antioxidant-rich herbal extracts and leaves no white cast or greasiness.

The moisturizer

Think of it as adding a scoop of protein powder to your morning smoothie. Packed with amino acids (a.k.a. molecules that combine to form proteins), peptides and nutrients, this supercharged moisturizer replenishes your skin to a strong and healthy state.

The retinol serum

In clinical studies, this fast-acting retinol serum was shown to lessen the look of wrinkles, pores, dark spots and uneven texture in just two weeks. And while it’s definitely potent, it’s also laced with soothing squalane, making it gentle enough to use every night.

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