Faux fur, oversized coats: Daniel Lee’s ode to ‘Britishness’ in Burberry debut

Faux fur, oversized coats and hot water bottles dominated Burberry’s runway as Daniel Lee presented his vision for the British heritage label at London Fashion Week on Monday.

Set in a dark marquee in London’s Kennington Park, Lee delivered a colorful take on Burberry’s classic camel, black and red check as Burberry steps into a new era under his tenure.

The 37-year-old, Bradford, England-born chief creative officer drew inspiration from the brand’s affinity with exploration and the outdoors in his first collection for the fashion house, according to the show notes.

Silhouettes were oversized and soft around the edges across both women’s and men’s wear. Burberry’s mackintosh-style trench coat was reimagined in a muted khaki with green faux fur lapels.

English rose patterned tailoring sat alongside chunky rubber boots with an equestrian twist and cosy square-toed shearling and faux fur shoes in the Autumn Winter 2023 collection.

There were also feather embellished outfits in autumnal tones and pleated tartan-inspired kilts over trousers.

A revamped version of the Equestrian Knight design was blown up on blankets and dresses in blue and white.

Outfits were accessorised with hot water bottles, fuzzy trimmed bags and big scarves.

No big-name models

There was a notable absence of big-name models walking, in contrast with previous Burberry events that has seen the likes of Bella Hadid sashay on the catwalk.

Actor Jude Law’s daughter Iris, and singer-songwriter Liam Gallagher’s son Lennon both walked Monday’s runway.

Lee’s outfits are key to chief executive Jonathan Akeroyd’s aim to move the 167-year-old brand more upmarket and attract younger consumers. Monday’s show follows the unveiling of Burberry’s new logo: a sleeker elongated typeface and a campaign steeped in “Britishness.”

The “Burberry Classics” preview campaign released earlier this month, the first under Lee’s creative direction, brought back a redesign of the brand’s Equestrian Knight motif and featured British celebrities including soccer star Raheem Sterling, rapper and MC Skepta and actress Vanessa Redgrave.

Lee previously created a buzz at Italy’s Bottega Veneta with pillowy leather clutch handbags and slip-on heels. He replaced Ricardo Tisci last year. —Reuters