Daniel Lee Makes His Mark as Burberry Returns to London

British designer Daniel Lee presented his first collection for Burberry in a closely watched show in London late Monday, returning to the luxury brand’s roots for inspiration.

Burberry’s was the most anticipated of the roughly 50 shows at London Fashion Week, as fashionistas got a glimpse of the brand’s new direction following the September departure of creative director Riccardo Tisci.

For Lee’s first collection, the 37-year-old designer from Bradford in northern England revived the brand’s classics, which Tisci had largely shunned.

Around 500 guests filled a marquee in Kennington Park, south London, where tea, tartan blankets and hot-water bottles generated an intimate atmosphere.

The venue was “inspired by Burberry tents from the late 19th and early 20th century”, evoking “a cosiness that provides warmth and protection from the elements”, Burberry said in a statement.

In the mountain chalet atmosphere, models paraded with hot water bottles in hand and rubber boots on their feet.

The brand’s iconic chequerboard print came in all colours on jumpers, trench coats, trousers and skirts. The rose, symbol of England and Lee’s home county of Yorkshire, appeared on several outfits.

One model wore a white, plaid and blue jumper, emblazoned with the brand’s iconic logo that Lee has updated in what Burberry called his “first creative expression”.

The horseman, a symbol of Burberry since the early 20th century, was abandoned by Tisci when he took over the reins in 2018.

After years at Givenchy, the Italian attempted to rejuvenate the ageing image of the London house, founded in 1856.

Unlike his predecessor, Lee presented few extravagant evening outfits, with the exception of two dresses with bare shoulders.

Lee was feted at the end of the show by an audience that included model Naomi Campbell, Vogue magazine doyenne Anna Wintour and British singers Damon Albarn and Stormzy.

Also among the guests were Australian movie director Baz Luhrmann, whose film “Elvis” won four BAFTA awards on Sunday, and Syrian swimmer Yusra Mardini, whose life story has been adapted into a film.

It was Burberry’s first physical show at London Fashion Week since 2019, with the Covid pandemic and Queen Elizabeth II’s death hampering previous plans.

© Agence France-Presse