Can I pull off a one-shoulder dress? Ask The Kit

“I’ve been searching for dresses for summer parties and I’ve noticed that one-shoulder looks are absolutely everywhere. I’m in my late 40s, and I once had an off-the-shoulder prom dress, so I’m a little nervous about looking the wrong kind of retro. Will the look work on me now?”—Skittish about shoulders, Ottawa

Yes indeed, Skittish, there are so very many one-shoulder dresses and tops out there on the market right now and that means that yes, there will certainly be one to fit and flatter every body at every age. This is indeed remarkable, if only because it was just a few weeks before this cold-shoulder tsunami hit that I was personally convinced that COVID had killed off all fashion trends!

But then, this one has staying power. The one-shoulder dress has a long and illustrious history. The first versions of the silhouette arrived around the same time as the strapless look, in the 1930s. Surrealist designer Elsa Shiaparelli played with asymmetry and exposing one shoulder in her sculptural dresses. You can find elegant one-shouldered cocktail gowns from the 1950s, usually highly structured in the bodice.

It was Halston who freed the shoulder—and the vibe—in the 1970s with his louche one-shoulder goddess gowns, in flowing jerseys, silk chiffons and drapey crepes. The look set the tone for the disco era. By the ’80s, one-shoulder was, yes, a big prom and bridesmaid dress look, pouffed up in taffeta and ruffles. I, too, had a dubiously stiff prom dress with one shoulder bared during that decade, more Molly Ringwald in Pretty in Pink cold-shoulder than Halston goddess as I see it now, looking back critically on my teenage style.

By the late ’80s, though, the one-shoulder look grew sleeker, with Tunisian-born couturier Azzedine Alaïa pouring the emerging set of supermodels into his body-hugging creations, often featuring one-shoulder styles in his signature black. Hervé Leger followed in his footsteps with his army of bandage-dress-wearing celebrities at the end of the Aughts, often with one or both shoulders bared.

A major moment for the style was when Michelle Obama wore that white Jason Wu one-shoulder gown to her husband’s first inauguration in 2009, redefining the whole idea of goddess. Ten years later, Kate Moss showed up on her date Marc Jacobs’s arm at the Met Ball in the designer’s liquid silver minidress with one shoulder, topped by a fabulous silver turban.

Cut to the two-year interruption of regular programming and we now have a wealth of options to make this classic look new again. On the Spring 2022 runways—yes, the fashion shows still take place, even if they don’t have the same authoritative impact they used to—designers such as Christian Siriano in New York proved that body-conscious one-shoulder styles belong on a full range of dress sizes. Even 4-year-old Stormi Webster, Kylie Jenner’s mini-me, wore a one-shoulder dress for her Billboard Music Awards debut this week!

Today, as spring/summer collections fill the racks, the ubiquity of the style makes it less of a grand statement, and more of a great date dress for a Thursday night. At Banana Republic, you’ll find plenty of versions right now, and its one-shoulder styles in modern cuts “are perfect for every occasion,” declares Tanija Gobin, the brand’s senior designer for womenswear.

There are two ways to go with the look, says Gobin. One is soft and floaty, as found in the line’s Linen Ruffle Dress, which Gobin says came from a deep dive into the brand’s archives, “reimagined from our storied past.” The short wrap dress features a ruffle that brings a hint of ’80s to exaggerate one shoulder, without the stiffness of that decade’s fabrications. Another floaty look Gobin points to is the Radiant One-Shoulder Dress, an A-line option in bright, bold hues that nods to the Halston Goddess dress with its emphasis on volume from the sunburst pleated fabric.

The other major direction is a more fitted one-shoulder silhouette, such as Banana’s simply named One-Shoulder Dress, made of stretchy viscose and Spandex. “I love the look of a sculptural blazer or a menswear blazer over this dress,” says Gobin. “It creates an interesting neckline, and it’s a sophisticated way to expose some skin that still allows a woman to be comfortable and confident.”

The key to feeling confident in this look comes down to foundational garments. What bra to wear when one shoulder is exposed has to be a looming question in your mind, Skittish. Well, the traditional route is to do a strapless bra, but ladies, we all know how awful and uncomfortable strapless bras can be, especially if you have some heft to your cleavage and require decent support. Gobin suggests a convertible bra where you can detach one of the straps, such as the Multi-Way T-shirt bra from Gap.

I’m going to suggest Skims. Kim Kardashian’s lingerie and shapewear line is designed to accommodate all kinds of body-conscious silhouettes, as befits its founder’s risqué fashion choices. I ordered a one-shoulder bralette online from the Skims website (the line is now available at Holt Renfrew too) and when it came, it looked small. But it really stretches, a lot, and it really works, holding everything in place and providing seamless coverage under clingy clothing.

As for how to accessorize the look, definitely keep the bare shoulder bare, so as not to compromise the visual effect of the shape. That means taking a cue from Ms. Moss’s turban styling and keep your hair up—go for an updo or ponytail. If you must wear your hair down, be sure to sweep it back, or at least off the side where the fabric remains. It also means never wearing a shoulder bag on the bare-shoulder side of your outfit (one-shoulder styles cry out for clutches). And keep the outfit balanced by mimicking the cut-out effect of the dress with open-toed shoes, sandals or mules.

So, Skittish, you heard it here: there are no excuses left not to play it cool this summer with a one-shoulder dress for every party, wedding or Thursday date night.

Shop the advice

Some off-the-shoulder items and the undergarments to make them work

Banana Republic dress, $260, bananarepublic.ca SHOP HERE

An elegant yet comfy date night or party dress with voluminous sun-ray pleats and a vibrant primary hue.

Skims bralette, $54, skims.com SHOP HERE

This looks tiny when it comes out of the box, but trust, it stretches to fit and support generous cup sizes. Plus, it comes in a wide range of skin tone hues.

Mango dress, $50, mango.com SHOP HERE

This flowing, drapey jersey by the brand that Halston built is a modern re-imagining of the master’s iconic ’70s dresses. The cobalt blue is high impact, the mood is sexy and stylish.

Gap bra, $59, gapcanada.ca SHOP HERE

A great foundation basic, Gap’s Multiway bra has adaptable straps (remove one or both, cross them at the back or make it a halter) to keep you in place under any silhouette.

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