The Spanish city without the crowds – it has sandy beaches and incredible food

SIPPING our glasses of sherry, we admire the Spanish women decked out in flamenco dresses for the Feria del Vino Fino.

The festival celebrating the classic Spanish tipple takes over the town of El Puerto de Santa Maria in Andalusia every May.

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A short bus ride from the town’s main square, the festival ground is packed with colourful marquees, bright lights and, of course, flamenco performances.

And it comes with a sensory overload of rides, rollercoasters and arcade games.

All the while, the sherry flows freely.

Soaking up the atmosphere and watching the dancing gives a special insight into a very different side of Spain to the more well-trodden Costa del Sol.

On my four-day journey through the southern tip of Andalusia, I was based in the port city of Cadiz.

My room at Tandem Torres de Cadiz Suites in the heart of the old town proved to be one of the best spots to soak up the sights and sounds of the city.

Its rooftop terrace, complete with a small pool, was the perfect location to unwind.

I was almost relieved to discover it didn’t have its own restaurant because I was eager to explore the local food scene.

While most tourists opt for a sweet breakfast of churros with chocolate, I wanted something more traditional.

A short walk from the hotel, I found Cafeteria Kambembo.

A coffee, glass of orange juice and toast served with a tub of spicy tomato sauce called salmorejo set me back less than £4.

I also knew I couldn’t leave the city without tasting a Cafe Bombon — a strong shot of espresso served with sweetened condensed milk.

It acted as the perfect afternoon pick-me-up.

At 11pm, my group joined a queue of locals outside La Candela to vie for a dinner table.

With every edge of bar space taken, we expected a long wait, but to our delight, we were seated quickly.

And within seconds of sitting down, our waiter recommended a sumptuous seafood platter with small cod fillets served on banana leaves, portions of roasted octopus and rounded parcels of scallops.

The whole meal, including a chilled glass of white wine, set us back £15 each.

Then we danced and drank our way into the early hours alongside other revellers.

After several shots — and too many tragic moves to Spanish chart-toppers at the Rollin’Rock Pub — we grabbed a table at Medusa, a more subdued cocktail bar.

Narrowest street

Drinks were both cheap and strong and we made sure to make the most of the generous pours.

But Cadiz is more than just a blur of late nights.

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Before breakfast, I made a beeline for the city’s cathedral.

Topped with a glistening gold dome, it was designed so ships could spot the port city in the daylight.

Round the corner there’s el Callejon del Duende, the narrowest street in the city.

While it’s been closed to the public for years, I popped my camera through the gate at its entrance and snapped away at the tiny passageway now filled with plants and flowers.

As my tour guide advised, I visited the Roman amphitheatre (free to enter) as soon as it opened so I could avoid the hordes of day-trippers who flood the city from their cruise ships.

Beyond Cadiz, there were simply too many places to explore along the region’s southern edge, but I decided to scope out towns Vejer de la Frontera and Conil de la Frontera.

Book a tour with Get Your Guide and they will make sure you get the most out of Andalusia’s lesser-known towns.

We started our day in Vejer de la Frontera, a picturesque hill town with viewpoints overlooking orange groves and the Straits of Gibraltar.

Just in time for lunch, we arrived in Conil de la Frontera, famous for its white-washed buildings and hearty plates of red tuna.

Rafael, our guide, recommended a local dish called atun de almadraba encebollado (a red tuna steak served in a broth and chips) at Anticuario Conil.

After lunch, I walked off my full stomach by climbing the Guzman Tower, a medieval fortress turned panoramic viewpoint.

I quickly found that excursions in Andalusia are best done in the morning when temperatures are slightly cooler.

And that way you can arrive back in Cadiz to make the most of a well-earned Spanish siesta.

After Conil de la Frontera, I used my downtime wisely by relaxing at the hotel’s rooftop pool.

But once the sun had passed its highest peak I headed to local beach La Caleta for a bracing dip.

As the sun set, I retreated back to the hotel and changed for dinner, ready for another evening of sumptuous food and a few too many glasses of sherry.

While I may have had a hangover or two during my trip, I came back feeling relaxed, revitalised and deeply connected to authentic Spanish life.