Among the shadows of the palms, in the shade of Le Morne mountain I stand, feet equally spaced, knees slightly bent, arms in a ‘v’ shape, every ounce of my focus on the small, yellow ball in the manicured grass before me.
I am at Paradis Golf Club in Mauritius, attempting to ruin a good walk, to learn the sport of kings, to play the gentleman’s game – in short, to try golf for the first time.
I’d been musing on taking up golf for a while. As someone who isn’t super active, but up for a challenge, I was keen to give it a go. It’s more sociable than a run or swim, more achievable than a HIIT class and more practical than attempting yoga or Pilates with big boobs. Not to mention, it also appealed to my competitive side.
It’s safe to say I had assumed I’d play my first game on some dreary, rain-soaked UK course, so was delighted to tee off beneath blue skies, surrounded by flame trees, date trees and cheerful Golden Trumpets (yellow flowers also known as allamandas) at the Paradis Golf Club, an 18-hole, par 72, championship course.
‘If you are stable you can do it. Without the stability you can’t.’ This is the first piece of golf wisdom imparted by my teacher, Hans Jeewajee, who’s played for 25 years, trained in France and has taught for 15.
The golf pro, who grew up in La Gaulette, discovered his natural talent and love for the game aged just 11 when a caddy brought a nine-iron, some golf balls and tees to the village. After hitting balls into a sugar cane field, he’d found his calling.
Our lesson is a crash course in the technical side of the game, from the difference between a putter and an iron (one for short distances, the other long, “with a putter we roll the ball, with an iron we chip the ball”) to all things angles and acronyms. Chip means hitting the ball and the ground.
I learn that being short and chubby is no golf handicap and my naturally good balance is an advantage. I also, unexpectedly, discover the therapeutic aspect of the game – for an hour my mind is clear of everything but position, grip, alignment (PGA) and my ambitions start and end with hearing the satisfying ‘thwok’ as a ball is sent hurtling out over the green.
While I don’t get a hole in one this time I take away an appreciation of the patience and skill required for this, and a plan to hit the golf clubs back home.
Of course, back home you can’t usually play golf in the morning and swim with dolphins in the afternoon. Luckily for me, my hotel organises both on a daily basis.
I am staying at Dinarobin Beachcomber Golf Resort & Spa, where guests whizz about its facilities and to activities at neighbouring hotel Paradis Beachcomber Golf Resort and Spa in breezy little chauffered carts.
Off the beach at Paradis Beachcomber Golf Resort and Spa I spend a magical few hours on a boat following spinner dolphins – watching them leap and live up to their name before plopping into the water and swimming beside them myself. Swimming with dolphins is just as magical as everyone says but my number one tip even for strong swimmers is to wear flippers because, wow, they are fast. (My second tip is to buy ocean-safe sunblock and remember to reapply it after your swim).
At Dinarobin Beachcomber Golf Resort & Spa, unforgettable activities include dawn swims in the tranquil swimming pool, just a minute’s walk from the rooms, and a massage at the hotel’s peaceful, palm-sheltered spa.
If golf isn’t energetic enough, other activities range from tennis to mountain biking. At Paradis Beachcomber Golf Resort and Spa, guests can try their hand at an extensive range of watersports including sailing hobie cats, kayaking, water-skiing, windsurfing or stand-up paddle boarding – all great fun but unlikely to top the dolphin trip.
I discover one of the best beaches in Mauritius, La Cuvette, during my stay at Royal Palm Beachcomber Luxury, in the north of the island. With soft sands and waves calm as a millpond during my visit it would be a great place for all ages and abilities to swim. It is known for being so still, locals liken it to a bath.
Mauritius on a budget:
- To save money and avoid the crowds, visit between May and August. Temperatures average 25 degrees Celsius in June, but flights and hotel prices will be lower than in high season (November to April). Cyclone season is January to February.
- British Airways, Air Mauritius and Tui fly direct from London to Mauritius, with a flight time of about 12 hours. However, if you don’t mind a stopover in Europe, Dubai or Kenya you could save hundreds. AirFrance flies from Heathrow to Mauritius via Paris for £424 in June and August, with a journey time of about 14 hours.
- Budget-friendly accommodation options by the beach and with pools include the three star Veranda Tamarin & Spa, which has room-only doubles from £89 and Mon Choisy aparthotel, which has room-only doubles from £62. If you don’t mind staying inland you can find bargains from £44 per night. All the country’s beaches are free and legally accessible to everyone – the best include Flic en Flac and Trou aux Biches.
- It’s also worth keeping an eye out for package holiday deals. Tui has seven-day trips, including Emirates flights from Gatwick, from £1,018 per person (staying room-only at Grand Bay Suites).
- If you can afford it, consider combining a lower cost stay with a few nights at a five star spa property such as Royal Palm Beachcomber Luxury to end your holiday on a high.
Royal Palm Beachcomber Luxury is right beside this bath-like beach, offering impressive wine-paired meals, yoga classes and a large spa. The smart hotel has hosted celebrities, politicians and royals from Anne Hathaway to Queen Elizabeth II. I enjoyed the early morning exercise class here – usually on the beach but relegated to the air-conditioned gym due to rain when I stayed. The hour-long ‘muscles awakening’ at 8am might not be everyone’s idea of holiday fun but, as a morning person, I loved the combination of stretching, breathing and dancing about to Abba. And it leaves me with plenty of energy to get in the swing of things.
Back at Paradis Golf Club, before saying goodbye, golf manager Mario Desvaux de Marigny takes me on a whistle-stop tour of the whole course and its appeal. Not that I need convincing. The blue skies, the palm trees, it really is Paradis. Unless, of course, a shot goes amiss. ‘We have the sea over there,’ he deadpans. ‘You can’t play if you hit the ball there.’
Getting there:
B&B doubles at Dinarobin Beachcomber Golf Resort & Spa cost from £243.
B&B doubles at Paradis Beachcomber Golf Resort and Spa cost from £235.
B&B doubles at Royal Beachcomber Luxury cost from £502.
An hour’s private golf tuition for one person at Paradis Golf Club costs £63. Beginners can play the first nine holes over two hours, with instruction and equipment included, for £156. Experienced golfers can play a round for £22.
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