There’s another reason to avoid gel manicures? Reports warn they can cause severe allergic reactions

Earlier this year, a study conducted by the University of California San Diego raised concerns about the safety of UV nail lamps, namely their potential to cause skin cancer. Now, new evidence is giving people more reasons to rethink getting their nails done. Increasing cases of severe allergic reactions to acrylates, substances found in gel polish, have recently been reported, and it’s said the consequences can be “life-changing.” The U.K. government has even launched an investigation into the matter.

So how alarmed should we really be? We asked Toronto dermatologist Dr. Julia Carroll to explain.

Why can gel manis potentially cause skin reactions?

“Gel manicures can cause irritation or allergies due to the acrylates present in the nail polish,” explains Carroll. That’s because acrylates are strong sensitizers, meaning they can trigger an immune response in some people, causing an allergic reaction. “Acrylates can also cause irritant contact dermatitis, which is a non-allergic skin reaction that occurs when the skin is exposed to a substance that damages or irritates the skin.”

What are acrylates?

Acrylates are a family of synthetic resins made by polymerizing acrylic acid or its esters, such as methyl methacrylate (MMA) and ethyl methacrylate (EMA), says Carroll. These substances are commonly found in various products, including adhesives, nail polishes and dental fillings.

How common are reactions to these chemicals?

“The prevalence of acrylate allergies is not precisely known, but studies have suggested that they are becoming more common,” says Carroll. It’s important to note that the risk of developing an allergy or adverse reaction to acrylates may increase with repeated exposure, meaning frequent gel manicures may pose a higher risk than occasional ones.

What are some signs of a reaction to acrylates?

“Signs of an allergy or irritation caused by acrylates may include redness, itching, swelling and blistering of the skin around the nails,” says Carroll. Nails can also become loose or even fall off completely. (We’ll spare you the photos.) In severe cases, a person may also experience difficulty breathing or a rapid heartbeat.

Are nails the only area that can be affected?

Reactions to the acrylates in gel polish can also occur on the face (especially the eyelids) since we often touch these areas with our hands. “So if you get a rash on your lids or face frequently, see if it lines up with your mani schedule,” Carroll advises. “You may get the reaction solely on your eyelids and not on your fingers or hands.”

How long do these issues normally last and what can be done to help?

The duration of symptoms depends on the severity of the reaction. In mild cases, Carroll says symptoms may resolve within a few days of removing the gel manicure. In more severe cases, however, symptoms may persist for several weeks or even months. “Treatment may include steroids to reduce inflammation and alleviate symptoms.”

Why has it been said that becoming sensitized to acrylates can have “life-changing” consequences?

Sensitization to acrylates can have serious consequences in the future, says Carroll, because acrylates feature in a number of medical treatments such as dental fillings, joint replacements and certain medications, including some diabetes drugs. So becoming allergic to the substances could render you unable to receive such treatments.

Why are at-home gel manis potentially riskier than the salon kind?

“The risk of developing an allergy or adverse reaction to acrylates may be higher with at-home gel kits due to improper application, exposure to higher concentrations of acrylates or prolonged exposure to the chemicals used in the process,” says Carrolls. Some reports have also found that the allergies often occur when the gel polish isn’t sufficiently cured, leading the chemicals to penetrate the nail bed and surrounding skin. This is likelier to occur with DIY kits as users may not cure their polish long enough or their lamps may not be powerful enough to properly get the job done.

How can we minimize the risk of developing a reaction to acrylates?

“To minimize the risk of developing an allergy or adverse reaction to acrylates, it is recommended to limit exposure to nail polish, particularly gel manicures and use gloves or other protective barriers when handling acrylates or other chemicals,” says Carroll. She adds that “in general, it may be safer to get gel manicures in a salon rather than doing it yourself, as salon professionals are trained in proper application techniques and the use of protective measures.” Definitely a lot to think about. We’ll keep you updated as more information comes to light.

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