When I suggested to a friend that she grab some winter sun in Tenerife, the idea was met with a swift, yet very firm, ‘nope.’
Despite around 700,000 Brits heading to the largest of the Canary Islands every year in search of year-round sun, it’s become synonymous with fly-and-flop culture, and boozy Brits abroad.
While there’s absolutely nothing wrong with spending a week on a sunbed with a cocktail in hand, the reputation feels a little unfair.
Located off the northwest coast of Africa, Tenerife’s volcanic landscape makes for some dramatic scenery, and with over 300 clear nights each year, it’s one of the best places in the world for stargazing.
It’s also a haven of artisan produce and fine dining, with the island home to five Michelin-starred restaurants.
I spent a whirlwind 48 hours in Tenerife, and I left feeling relaxed, in awe – and like I couldn’t possibly eat another bite.
Where to stay
Nestled away on the island’s west coast, you’ll find the Ritz-Carlton Abama.
Less than a 30-minute drive from Tenerife South airport (although be prepared for long queues at the taxi rank) the resort is surrounded by banana plantations and overlooks the shimmering Atlantic Ocean.
The Ritz-Carlton feels less like you’re in Europe, and more like you’re stepping into a fairytale land.
The pink Moorish palace can be spotted from miles around, and with lush gardens and swimming pools around every corner, you will get lost – more than once – but every new terrace or courtyard you stumble upon is a welcome surprise.
I stayed in one of the villa rooms – rather than in the main ‘citadel’ complex. The room (bigger than my entire London flat) had a private swimming pool, shaded balcony and a bath I could sleep in – if only the beds weren’t so comfortable. Villa guests also get free wine, beer or cava by the pool.
Despite the size – there are more than 400 rooms – it’s easy to get around the resort, thanks to the friendly staff, golf buggies, and the funicular that takes you down to the ocean.
In total, there are seven swimming pools available to all hotel guests, catering for a range of travellers, from families to honeymooners. And if heaven isn’t the cliff-top, ocean view infinity pool, I’m not sure what is.
For those who don’t mind a good walk spoiled, there’s also a par 72 golf course, and other amenities include a spa, a kids club, and fashion boutique.
What to do
If you can tear yourself away from the five-star luxury of the Ritz-Carlton there is lots to see and do on Tenerife.
Looming high above the landscape, it would be hard to miss Mount Teide, Spain’s highest mountain at 3,718m (three times higher than Ben Nevis), and an active volcano. No, I didn’t know it existed either.
A UNESCO World Heritage sight, Teide has not erupted since 1909 – although as one cab driver told me, they’re ‘due for another one.’
Experienced hikers will enjoy the six to seven hour climb to the top, but you don’t fancy the walk, you can hop on board a cable car.
If you make it for sunrise or sunset, you’ll catch a glimpse of the world’s largest shadow projected over the sea – yes, literally.
You can also head up to the mountain at night, and look to the skies. Due to the high altitude and lack of light pollution, the skies above Tenerife have been recognised as some of the best in the world for stargazing, alongside destinations such as Hawaii and Chile.
Ritz-Carlton can also organise stargazing sessions for you on the beach – we had a fantastic guide from Canarias Nature Guides, who set up a telescope which allowed us to take in breathtaking glimpses of Saturn and Jupiter. The hotel provides blankets and cava to sip while you gaze skyward.
If you’d rather keep your head out of the clouds, book onto a cheese-tasting tour at Farm Montesdeoca.
The Canary Islands consume the highest amount of cheese per person in Europe (I knew there was a reason I felt at home there), and Farm Montesdeoca makes award-winning goats cheese at their family run farm and factory.
They only distribute within the Canaries, so if you’re a cheese lover, this place is not to be missed. Their smoked cheese was the best I’ve ever tasted and goat’s butter is surprisingly yum.
The farm was a work-in-progress when we visited, but they have plans to construct a new shop and terrace, which will play host to live music, and a rotation of chefs who will curate menus using the farm’s produce.
What to eat
If you haven’t filled up on cheese, back at the Ritz-Carlton, you’re spoilt for choice when it comes to fine dining.
Kabuki is the resort’s Japanese-Spanish fusion restaurant, founded by Chef Ricardo Sanz. The setting is dramatic, with low lighting and leather seats, but if you enjoy sushi – and lots of it – this is the place for you.
M.B. is also located within the Ritz-Carlton Abama and is the only restaurant in the Canary Islands to hold two Michelin stars. The restaurant serves deluxe Basque dishes created by Martin Berasategui – a world renowned chef who holds 12 Michelin stars in total – more than any other Spanish chef.
The vibe at M.B. was much more laid back and cheery – but don’t let the fool you, this is serious food. Kicking off the tasting menu with a caramelized millefeuille made with smoked eel and foie-gras very much set the tone for the courses that followed.
Calamari spaghetti (even the pasta was made from squid), lamb rack dressed with pistachio, aubergine and yoghurt, and a dessert the featured a mini coconut filled with piña colada were just some of the delicious creations.
If you’re looking for something a little different (and a little lighter), newly-opened Verde Mar subverts the traditional way of eating, with vegetables promoted to centre stage, accompanied by meat as a side dish, if so desired.
Verde Mar uses all local produce and no plastic – vegetables are grown in the hotel grounds, seafood is caught on the coast, and meat is raised on the island.
Favourite dishes included kimchi croquettes, and a marinated cauliflower with black truffle.
Meanwhile Mirador has the best views in the hotel, overlooking the ocean. This was my favourite breakfast spot, with a buffet that will serve pretty much any breakfast-themed food you can think of. It was a hard place to tear myself away from before catching a flight home.
The bottom line
When I boarded my flight, I had lots of preconceived ideas of what I might find on the island. Yes, there was sunshine and cocktails a plenty, and it’s a great choice for those looking for easy, no-frills fun. But, if you do want the frills, don’t dismiss Tenerife. I’ll be heading back in a hurry.
Need to know
- Flight time: 4hrs 30mins.
- Tenerife is the perfect spot for year-long sun. Highs reach 28°C in July, and 24°C in November.
- Double rooms at Ritz-Carlton Abama from £280 per night, bed and breakfast.
- Low season lead-in rate for deluxe double room at Ritz-Carlton Abama: £282 per night.
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