Iceland taught me ‘Þetta Reddast,’ it will all work out in the end

Þetta reddast (pronounced thet-ta re-dust) is an Icelandic phrase that’s become the country’s unofficial motto, loosely translating as ‘it will all work out in the end’.

It’s a philosophy that defines the Icelandic mindset; dark days give way to round-the-clock sunlight, snow thaws to reveal fresh shoots of green, and molten lava cools to form a whole new landscape.

In essence, life finds a way here. Icelanders have seen the full gamut of Mother Nature’s whims since the Vikings first settled on the harsh, rocky island, which explains why locals are uniquely placed to appreciate life’s uncontrollability.

I find myself getting emotional as a weather-beaten storyteller describes families huddling by fires in longhouses and telling tales to pass cold nights. Then I realise that I’m not trying to survive in a shack in the woods, I’m watching the introduction of a brand new virtual reality experience in Reykjavik. But maybe this is Þetta reddast incarnate.

FlyOver Iceland lets you experience the country’s breathtaking scenery without moving a muscle, using suspended full motion seating, a 20-metre spherical screen and plenty of special effects to make you feel as though you’re soaring through the air.

Given how changeable Iceland’s weather can be, it gives tourists the chance to see fjords and glaciers even when the forecast says no. And at around £32.50 (ISK 5,490) per adult ticket, it’s also a whole lot cheaper – not to mention more accessible – than venturing out IRL.

Although you’ll find Iceland on many travellers’ bucket lists, it has a reputation for being an expensive trip, especially since sights like the Northern Lights aren’t guaranteed. Yet, with a little pre-planning and a healthy dose of characteristic Nordic nonchalance, you won’t be disappointed.

Low-cost Icelandic airline PLAY flies from London Stansted to Reykjavik daily, from as little as £46 one way. You can also go to destinations like Baltimore, Washington, Boston, New York and, as of June 22, Toronto via Reykjavik, with stopovers from a few hours to days.

From there, you can tailor your holiday to suit your budget. One of the capital’s most iconic landmarks, Hallgrimskirkja cathedral, costs under £6 (ISK 1,000) to visit, while museums from penises to punk charge less than £15 for full-price tickets.

Companies like Citywalk offer free walking tours, but there’s a lot to be said for having a wander and seeing what you find. Perhaps you’ll find yourself taking in the sea air by Grótta Lighthouse or end up perusing the rainbow shopping street Laugavegur – going with the flow is part of the fun.

We stayed at Center Hotels’ Grandi location, which proved a perfect spot for what Scots might call stravaiging. The majority of tourist attractions are just a short walk away, so you can head off exploring and get back to base camp easily.

And as base camps go, it was plush – all modern industrial decor and pop-up events. The hotel’s Héðinn Kitchen & Bar makes a mean cocktail too, and I’d recommend the tasting menu for the amazingly tender beef tenderloin and slow cooked beef cheek alone.

Speaking of food, a standout of the trip was Monkeys in Reykjavik. The restaurant itself was decorated in plush velvet and bold florals – perfect for Instagram, which may have been why it was bustling with the city’s cool crowd.

On the menu, created by chef Snorri Sigfússon, was a mix of Peruvian and Japanese staples: crispy gyoza, the freshest sashimi you’ve ever tried, and delicious ceviche to name a few. We were all suitably stuffed by the time a waiter brought us a huge dessert platter, and I’m ashamed to say I didn’t have much room left – although the hazelnut ice cream I did manage was unreal.

Reykjavik is full of different cuisines, with streets lines with eateries from American diners to noodle bars. Icelandic food is easy to come by, but in many ways it’s more about the ingredients. Fish that’s just been plucked from the ocean is paired with rúgbrauð (dark rye bread) that takes on the land’s volcanic qualities, while cows and sheep (in my experience the meat was predominantly local) graze freely on mountain-side pastures.

That wholesome, ‘slow living’ vibe was most apparent at Hvammsvik Hot Springs, around an hour’s drive from the capital. The brainchild of Icelandic business mogul Skúli Mogensen and his interior designer wife Gríma Thorarensen, it’s worlds away from the popular Blue Lagoon (which I have visited in the past – no judgement).

Skúli was CEO of WOW Air when the company when bankrupt in 2019. He had owned the land and its dilapidated buildings for years but, in an effort to get out of the rat race during the pandemic, began the rural revamp project – with plenty of design input from Gríma, of course.

Hvammsvik’s great hall (where guests come for breathwork classes and meditation) features artworks by Ólafur Elíasson and Björk collaborator Shoplifter, and nautical found objects dot the walls of the on-site Stormur Bistro. There, chefs serve up wellness shots, dung-smoked salmon open sandwiches (surprisingly decent) and hearty seafood soup to get you ready for braving the elements.

Guests can choose between Wim Hof classes and wild swimming, go for a sauna, or simply soak in one of the eight natural hot springs on the grounds. It can only be described as unspoilt. Jagged black rocks (including an elf stone – more on that later) circle the geothermal pools, against a backdrop of snow-capped hills and a tranquil lake.

Sipping champagne from the swim-up bar surrounded by nature’s majesty was almost emotional. Everything really does feel like everything will turn out okay when this is your view of the world – and given day tickets to Hvammsvik start at just £40 (6,900 ISK) it’s worth every penny.

That feeling, as if there are powerful forces at play beyond human explanation, typifies Iceland.

Multiple people told us about the culture’s belief in mythical creatures: trolls are said to live underground, causing earthquakes and eruptions when their habitats are messed with, and elves play pranks on enemies or grant wishes to those who touch special stones.

Mutual respect of the island’s delicate ecosystem is the motto of these huldufólk (hidden people) and a good one to take with you on your travels.

For many visitors, Iceland’s main attraction is the Northern Lights. But the aurora is unpredictable, so it’s best not to get your hopes up as there’s no guarantee you’ll see it. That was the case for us this time around, ironically coinciding with the weekend the solar wind was spotted throughout the UK.

You go all the way to Iceland to see the Northern Lights when you’d be better off in Colchester. Typical, yet nothing that can’t be remedied with some Þetta reddast magic.

Instead, we spent the evening at the Perlan museum and observatory, wandering the exhibitions – including the world’s first indoor Ice Cave – and watching a moving film, Arora, that showcased the Northern Lights in all its glory.

Despite the fact I experienced many of the natural phenomena I came to Iceland for virtually, luck did smile on us further out to sea. Setting sail from the harbour beside our hotel, we travelled round the coastline on an Elding whale-watching boat trip.

It’s not quite a relaxing excursion, and you’d be wise to make use of the thermal coveralls on board, but one glimpse of a humpback and you’ll forget about the biting winds. We certainly did, and the seal following our boat and showing off was the cherry on top.

There’s so much more I could say about Iceland; how amazing the thrifting and vintage scene is, or how interesting the Íslendingabók genealogical database that traces the ancestry of every Icelander ever is.

What I will say is that it’s a transcendental place that’s taught me a lot. I stepped back on the plane feeling renewed, embracing the arbitrary side of existing on Earth. Que sera, sera but make it Norse, right?

Then, upon landing back in London, my phone lit up with pictures of friends watching the aurora borealis from their back gardens, and all bets were off.

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